Great Rann of Kutch
The Great Rann of Kutch is a 7,500 square kilometers seasonal salt marsh located in the Kutch district of Gujarat, India. The drying process starts in early October and stretches into November, making December and January the best months to witness the White Salt Desert as an unending stretch of crusty salinity. Full moon nights are an absolute delight, gifting visitors the chance to see the supersized white ball shining bright in the star-spangled sky.
At the White Rann (Hindi word for desert) is a 15m high viewing tower that was inspired by the molecular structure of sodium chloride. From the top, one can see the single straight road that approaches the tower, while the other three sides are blanketed by the pristine salt landscape.
The marshland was flooded with water when I drove into the desert on October 29. I hopped out of the car and walked towards the swamp where I could see salt deposits under the clear water. Excited to see the crystals in its primal form, I fished them out of the marsh.
An hour later, the sun started to set and an unexpected spectacle began on the east.
A natural mirror had been created by the film of water that was gathered on the vast saltwater plain. The marriage of the sea and the sky was absolute perfection with the horizon disappearing at the center.
During the final quarter of sunset hour, I tried my luck and walked on the semi-dry patches of the desert. A stunning sunset was orchestrated by the amber ball of fire above the horizon and the shimmering mirage of what would soon be crystalline salt.
The further I walked, the deeper my shoes sank. But it didn’t matter because I grinned ear to ear as I looked upon what seemed like another world. The varying shades and textures of the salt marshland stirred feelings of absolute astonishment and a deep sense of satisfaction from recalling that this was the only planet supporting life for as long as the concept of time has existed.
I had spent the 150km drive to the desert feeling worried that it was not going to be worth the visit with the desert still underwater. But there were many other aspects of the trip that turned out to be great:
The bewilderment I felt seeing hundreds of birds perched on a single power line.
My excitement when I saw a flock of Kharai camels lounging in the arid landscape (I’ve got a thing for camels).
My wonderment of how the road that led me to the desert was paved; and appreciation for all the people who made it possible for me to witness the magical scenery.
And standing on the viewing deck that served as a mid-point between humanity and the vast expanse of nature, reminding me how lucky I am to get to live the best of both worlds.
There are so many ways things can go wrong. But there are so many ways things go right.
Perhaps after this experience, I will always keep one foot anchored in the beauty of the world, while rooting into the unpredictable and trusting in the fact that things in life will turn out to be grand.
To learn more about the salt farmers of the Rann of Kutch, check out this article by Sanchari Pal.